The history and views live on

By Craig Romano

Snow-clad and draped in glacial ice, it seems unlikely that wildfire would pose a threat to Mount Rainier. However, ringing the base of the 14,410-foot volcano is a nearly unbroken canopy of towering firs, hemlocks, and cedars within the 235,000 acre national park. And surrounding the park are millions of acres of additional timberland managed within national and state forests and private tree farms. When the nascent United States Forest Service decided that it was a good idea to start building fire lookouts to watch over this treasure trove of timber, they looked toward Rainier’s lofty slopes as the perfect spots to site them.

In 1916, the Forest Service constructed a stone shelter for fire watching at 9,584 feet on Mount Rainier’s Anvil Rock, just below Camp Muir. The rock hovel was replaced 12 years later by a cupola cabin. And while this location did indeed provide excellent fire finding with its sweeping horizon-spanning views, all too often it was shrouded in clouds prohibiting any viewing at all.

That was the issue, too, with the park’s second fire lookout, situated on a 7,176-foot point on the Colonnade on Rainier’s northwest shoulder. Built in 1930, it was soon taken out of use, replaced by a new tower at lower Sunset Park. But Anvil Rock remained staffed until 1942, not so much as to report fires but to record weather data. Soon after the first tower was constructed on Mount Rainier, the park service and the forest service realized what many hikers know today–that some of the best and more reliable alpine views aren’t on the mountain itself, but on the surrounding lower ridges and knobs immune to near-perpetual cloud cover.

By the 1930s, the park service and forest service began surveying more appropriate locations for fire lookouts. And with the nation in a Great Depression with millions of unemployed young men enrolled in Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC); officials had an army of labor at their disposal to construct new fire towers.

Up they went, mostly two-story cabins with wraparound balconies; simple in elegance and utilitarian in design. Within the national park, seven new fire towers were built: Shriner Peak in 1932, Tolmie Peak in 1933, Sunset Park in 1933, Gobblers Knob in 1933, Mount Fremont in 1934, Crystal Mountain and another lookout on a nearby knoll above Crystal Lake in 1934. And along the park’s periphery in the Snoqualmie National Forest (now Mount Baker-Snoqualmie), Wenatchee National Forest (now Okanogan-Wenatchee) and Columbia National Forest (now Gifford Pinchot), the CCC constructed scores of fire lookouts on ridges, knolls and summits. To the north, lookouts sprouted up on Clear West Peak, Suntop, Kelley Butte, and Bearhead Mountain, among others.

To the south, a precariously built lookout rose above sheer ledges on 5,685-foot High Rock. And a lookout was built on a 6,310-foot rounded knoll in the Tatoosh Range; where long before beat poet Jack Kerouac immortalized the Deception Peak lookout in the North Cascades, author Mary Hardy penned a well-received book, “Tatoosh.” in 1947 about her experiences as a fire watcher during World War II.

Along Mount Rainier National Park’s western boundary, a lookout tower was built in 1934 on 5,450-foot Glacier View peak. Thirty years later, the Washington Department of Natural Resources constructed a tower on 4,930-foot Puyallup Ridge. It still stands and is listed on the National Historic Lookout Register. However, it is rarely visited due to access issues over private land.

But the lookouts that still remain are accessible (mostly by trail) to the general public. Within the national park, four fire towers remain, one in each corner of the park. And while they share the same construction–two-story, wood-framed, wraparound windows and balcony–they each provide a unique view and perspective of the sprawling forests surrounding Mount Rainier, and of the mountain itself.

Here’s a thumbnail of each, including how to visit them:

Tolmie Peak

Sitting watch over the northwest corner of the park, Tolmie’s 5,939-foot summit commands impressive views from the mountain to the Sound. The trailhead is reached via the Mowich Lake Road, where you follow the Wonderland Trail north for 1.5 miles to Ipsut Pass. Then bear left for 1.7 miles through open forest and sub-alpine meadows skirting sparkling Eunice Lake before making the final ascent to the peak.

Mount Fremont

Perched on a ridge over 7,000 feet, it has the distinction of being Rainier’s highest remaining lookout. Situated in the drier northeast side of the park, the meadows here are punctuated with pumice and rock. The view of Rainier’s impressive Willis Wall and Emmons Glacier is breathtaking. Thanks to a lofty trailhead elevation of 6,400 feet at Sunrise, you needn’t work hard hiking the 2.7 miles.

Shriner Peak

The loneliest of Rainier’s lookouts, Shriner guards the quiet southeast corner of the park. The 4-mile hike to this 5,834-foot peak begins off of State Route 123. With over 3,400-feet of elevation gain, the trail is often deserted. Consequently, chances are good for viewing wildlife. Much of the peak’s lower slopes were engulfed by a wildfire before the lookout was constructed, creating open meadows and prime habitat. Bear, elk, deer, and grouse are abundant.

Gobbler’s Knob

At 5,485-feet, Gobbler’s Knob is the lowest of Rainier’s lookouts and the closest one to the volcano. It used to be the shortest to reach, too, just a 2.5-mile hike from Round Pass off of the West Side Road. But Tahoma Creek has continuously flooded the road, forcing its closure. To reach the trailhead now, you must first bike or walk an additional four miles.

Nearby remaining lookouts on national forest lands also invite exploring and make for excellent hiking destinations:

  • Suntop is perched on a 5,271-foot open knoll just north of the park. Reached by Forest Road 7315 (off of FR 73 near The Dalles Campground on State Route 410), it is a popular family picnicking and sightseeing spot. Hikers and mountain bikes can access it by following a 7.5-mile trail from Buck Creek.
  • High Rock, perhaps the most dramatic of the remaining lookouts, sits on a precipitous peak above sheer cliffs over 600 feet high along the appropriately named Sawtooth Ridge. The trailhead is reached by following Forest Road 8440 from Skate Creek Road.
  • Kelly Butte was recently restored by volunteers. The 1.7-mile trail, too, has been rebuilt in places, making what was once a short and steep hike a little less steep. Chances are good of seeing mountain goats. Reach the trail via Forest Road 7030 off of Greenwater River Road.

These lookouts, like many of the surviving fire lookouts from coast to coast, are primarily no longer used for fighting forest fires. Succumbing to aircraft surveillance, these backcountry sentinels remain historic landmarks. But beyond their weathered clapboards, they ignite passion and awe in their admirers by offering some of the hottest views in the Northwest.

Source: Visit Rainier, a non-profit organization that promotes Mount Rainier tourism.

Right crops give gardens good cover in fall and winter

By Melinda Myers

Put your garden to work over winter by planting a cover crop this fall. Covering the soil with plants that are turned into the soil or smothered and allowed to decompose in spring provides many benefits.  

Fall-planted cover crops protect the soil from erosion over winter and reduce stormwater runoff into nearby waterways and storm sewers. They also help reduce weeds by forming a dense mat that increases organic matter, adds nutrients, and improves the soil quality for your plants. These crops also help conserve soil moisture, and many provide welcome habitats for pollinators and other beneficial insects.

Oats, winter rye, winter wheat, crimson clover, and hairy vetch are common fall cover crops. The crimson clover and hairy vetch are legumes that can add a lot of nitrogen to the soil when they decompose. Try combining these with non-legumes when possible. Consider purchasing a cover crop mix like the True Leaf Market no-till pollinator-friendly cover crop mix, which contains both and helps support pollinators.
Most cover crops go dormant over winter and resume growth in spring. Annuals like daikon radishes and oats are killed by cold winter temperatures. This makes oats a good choice if you want to get an early start to planting in spring.

  • Plant fall cover crops at least four weeks before the first killing frost to give them time to establish. Cereal rye can be planted right up to the first frost. You can plant the whole garden bed or just the area between vegetables that are still growing.
  • Remove weeds, plants, and mulch when planting garden beds. Loosen the soil and rake it smooth before seeding..
  • Check the seed packet for the amount of seed needed to cover the area you are planting. Spread the seed by hand or with a broadcast spreader and gently rake the seeds into the soil. Make it easier to evenly spread tiny seeds by mixing them with compost and then spreading them. Once the seeds are planted, gently water using a fine mist.

Annual plants will be killed by cold winter temperatures, but the perennial cover crops will put on vigorous growth in late winter or early spring. Suppress this growth and kill the cover crop before it sets seed and at least two to four weeks before planting your garden. This allows microorganisms time to decompose the plant residue and avoid nitrogen deficiencies in spring plantings.

In the spring, use your mower or weed whip to cut the cover crop to the ground. Till the residue into the soil or cover the area with a black tarp or weed barrier for at least two weeks. Remove the tarp, then incorporate the residue into the soil or plant your vegetables through the dead plant remains.

Avoid working wet soil that can result in hard-as-rock clods and take years to repair the damage. Do a moisture test before working the soil. Grab a handful of soil and gently squeeze. If it breaks into smaller pieces with a tap of your finger, it’s ready to work. If it remains in a mud ball, wait a few days.

Two weeks or more after the cover crop has been killed or tilled into the soil, you can begin planting. Planting any earlier can result in nutrient deficiencies that will require a light spring fertilization.

Adding cover crops to your gardening routine will improve the soil, plant growth and is good for the environment. Like any new gardening practice, it can take time to adapt it to your space, climate, and gardening style. The cover crop growing guide at trueleafmarket.com can help.

Melinda Myers (melindamyers.com) is the author of 20 gardening books and host of.a DVD series and the “Melinda’s Garden Moment: TV and radio programs.

When a fragrance wafted through the bedrooms of older adults for two hours every night for six months, memories skyrocketed.

Participants in a study by University of California-Irvine neuroscientists reaped a 226 percent increase in cognitive capacity compared to another group that received less exposure to scents. The researchers said the study transforms the long-known tie between smell and memory into a non-invasive technique for strengthening memory and potentially deterring dementia.
The study, whose results were reported in August, involved men and women 60 to 85 years old who don’t have memory impairment. All were given a diffuser and seven cartridges, each containing a single and different natural oil. Some received full-strength cartridges, while others were given the oils in tiny amounts. The cartridges were activated for two hours as participants slept.

Cognitive performance was measured by a word list test commonly used to evaluate memory. Participants also reported sleeping more soundly.

Scientists have long known that the loss of olfactory capacity, or ability to smell, can lead to neurological and psychiatric diseases, including Alzheimer’s and other dementias, Parkinson’s, schizophrenia, and alcoholism. Researchers previously found that exposing people with moderate dementia to up to 40 different odors twice a day boosted their memories and language skills, eased depression, and improved their olfactory capacities.

Having people experience the odors while sleeping eliminates “the need to set aside time for this during waking hours,” said Cynthia Woo, one of the researchers.

Worth celebrating: 40 years of free medical attention

By Douglas Hill

2023 marks the 40th anniversary of Tacoma’s Neighborhood Clinic. The clinic will be holding a celebration to mark the occasion on Oct. 14 from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. in the Bichsel Hall rec center on the campus of the St. Leo Church, located at Yakima Avenue and South 13th Street. Tickets for the event are available at www.neighborhoodclinictacoma.org.

Likely, you’ve never heard of the Neighborhood Clinic. But it may be one of the most important community resources in Pierce County.

The clinic was started in 1983 by Father Bill Bichsel and members of the St. Leo Parish community, and is located in the former St Leo High School, with the goal of providing compassionate medical care to the people in need in Tacoma’s Hilltop Neighborhood.  In 1989, Neighborhood Clinic became a completely independent, 501(c)(3) non-profit health clinic, and is now supported by many denominations. The physical condition of the school building in the 1980s was very poor. In the ‘90s, the building was taken over Catholic Community Services and completely renovated for housing CCS and other charities. The clinic is still there, at 1323 S. Yakima Ave., and provides a modern facility for limited types of current urgent healthcare.

The clinic is governed by a board of community volunteers from various backgrounds and professions. The board employs only three paid staff–an executive director, a clinic coordinator, and a receptionist/medical assistant. 

The clinic is open Monday and Thursday evenings from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. but doesn’t close until the last patient is seen. Two to three care providers (physicians, physician assistants, and nurse practitioners) are there each night, along with two nurses, two clinical support workers, a social worker, and interpreters as available. The number of people volunteering in these capacities each year numbers in the dozens. None of them are compensated for their service but for the satisfaction of assisting people in need in our community. It is typical to hear a volunteer say this type of satisfaction and caring is why they got into the field of medicine to begin with. 

The goal continues to be helping all underserved patients by providing free immediate primary care for urgent and/or ongoing chronic medical conditions. For follow-up care, the clinic utilizes an onsite social worker to refer patients for affordable followup care in a primary care medical home.

If there is one thing that the Neighborhood Clinic has always had a supply of, it’s patients needing medical help. The number of patients being seen continues to grow. In 2022, it treated 1,633 patient visits, up 20 percent from 2021. As many as 2,000 patient visits are anticipated in 2023.

Typically, the patients can’t access the routine medical system.  Many are in transition, suffering homelessness or various mental health disabilities, have no medical insurance, and/or are non-English speaking. The clinic utilizes volunteers who speak a language or use the telephonic foreign language service to communicate with patients when needed. The latest wave of refugees, not surprisingly, are Ukrainian.  The clinic is open to everyone and doesn’tt take appointments. Those in need simply need to show up an hour before the doors open and sign in and wait their turn. 

Patients are never charged a dime.  But needless to say, the care is only partially free. The board is responsible for paying its three employees, rent for the facility, utilities, insurance, and other expenses. The budget for 2023 is approximately $250,000.

If you want to learn more or make an online donation, you can visit our website at www.neighborhoodclinictacoma.org. 

Douglas Hill is a member of the Neighborhood Clinic’s board.